What Hand Tool Technique Do You Want to Learn. By flipping it is not necessary to tilt the saw blade in the other direction. Really looking forward to the sliding dovetail video(s) and would like to see a series on making the bow saw and frame saw and to learn what you have done as far as perfecting the blades. With a second cut right next to each first cut I remove a little bit of waste. First, I took several traversing passes across the grain to flatten the board across its width. Next it was time to fit the battens. By the way, here are the glue blocks in place on the inside of the feet as well. ----- Paolini uses a standard rip blade in combination with two … I used a beefy piece of plywood, jointed square and flat, as a fence for the router. This leaves almost no waste in between the tails. I have a hammer combo machine so this is very usefull to me. So the battens are fit; tomorrow I’ll install the legs, surface the top and finish up the piece. ⬇️ Kumiko Starter Kit. Log in as an administrator and view the Instagram Feed settings page for more details. Hey Brendan, why didn’t you use a tapered sliding dovetail? The length of these pieces determines how much support of the workpiece you have on either side of the blade. In his book, Chris shows a great way to put in the long joint by hand using a large tenon saw, a chisel and a router plane. It also makes it possible to cut different dovetail angles with the same jig. --- Imprint. Your thoughts on doing this step earlier? _osm_location, _osm_session, _osm_totp_token, _osm_welcome, _pk_id., _pk_ref., _pk_ses., qos_token, __widgetsettings, local_storage_support_test, dovetail marker (optional, you can use the sliding bevel), 2 threaded inserts (optional, you can also use wood screws to attach the jig to your miter gauge). This week I’m building a new kitchen table, in between setting into my new job and figuring out where to buy lumber (and food, clothing, etc.). I cut the pins of the sliding dovetail first and really this is less a dovetail joint and more of a dado or housed joint. Here are the two 13-1/2″-wide white oak boards I’m using for the top of the staked worktable. For marking the pins I like to use a marking knife. I am aiming for a fit that I can press into place without a mallet but one that is very tight right at the front to seal up any gaps on that show face. Have fun in the shop! Note: When you batch out dovetails on multiple boards with the same width, at which this method really excels, you only have to make the layout on one board. I used my two go-to handplanes, the Lie-Nielsen No. It’s a thorough survey of most of what you can do with these tools. The pin is cut exactly the same as a dado with a saw to create the sides, a chisel to roughly remove the waste, then … I used my jack plane to sneak up on the fit, and put a slight hollow in the middle of the batten side to make it easy to bring home. In order for the back to stay flat, I screw one of the 5cm (2”) strips to the back. One of the slabs had a litt, This error message is only visible to WordPress admins, https://policies.google.com/privacy?hl=en, https://www.facebook.com/privacy/explanation, https://policies.google.com/privacy?hl=en&gl=en, https://wiki.osmfoundation.org/wiki/Privacy_Policy. We may receive a commission when you use our affiliate links. This will really strengthen that miter joint nicely. The dovetail slot is 5/8″ deep and 5-1/4″ wide. Thereby you just have to change out the MDF piece, when you change from tails to pins. I would have bored the battens before assembly on a drill press for accuracy but there are many ways to bore them after assembly. In order to dial in the exact height of the blade, I use a scrap piece with the same mark as the real boards. This could have been done the same way Chris does in his book, with a chisel and router plane (which I may prefer, as the mess and noise are significantly diminished), but I wanted to try it out with power tools. How did it turn out? Rather than obsess over it, I moved on to another facet of the build and let the dovetail problem simmer. Privacy Policy So when faced with a daunting amount of dovetails, furnituremaker Gregory Paolini turns to his tablesaw. I like this arrangement because I can use the table saw fence from time to time as a fence for the router. I also mark my waste. With a standard blade, I want the teeth to almost touch the line at the highest point. ----- Then, I moved to the other side of the slot and did the same. The slots are finished, so it’s time to fit the battens. Here, the hand-tool woodworker in me took over: I got out the handplane because I couldn’t bring myself to cut to final dimensions with the table saw. Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. After the height of the cut is set up I can position my board for the first cut. Required fields are marked *, Woodworker, Maker and Dad. Later this week I’ll post the full build of this project, here’s a post on what I did today. In this case I had the opposite with an every so slightly flared groove. I used the middle of the slot to check the depth, and test the setting to confirm the depth. First I mark my outside faces with a scribble and label them with pins and respectively tails. Now the jig is ready to be attached to the miter gauge. The dovetail slot is 5/8″ deep and 5-1/4″ wide. I 7cm (2¾“) wide and 20cm (8”) high piece of 15mm (½”) birch ply takes care of that. So I double checked the flatness and ran the tails. Before cutting the pins I insert new MDF plates in the jig. That is not a problem because it is the back edge of the case and I usually slightly taper my tails to ease the fit. The sliding bevel now can be used to tilt the blade to the exact angle. You can guess how I found out. The stop block ensures perfect repeatability of the cuts on multiple boards. Then I make all of my cuts on one side of the pins. ---- Further, you only have to lay out the tails and pins on one board and the other boards end up perfectly the same, thanks to the stop block. I made sure the bit was bottoming out at the same depth on both sides of the slot; it was a little trickier because I changed between the straight and dovetail bit a few times. Then I cut the t-track to length, countersink, pre-drill and screw it in place. My groove runs 14.5″ up from the bottom of the side so using the table saw fence makes this job easy. It’s a little easier as you don’t need to sneak up on the fit or relieve the middle to ease assembly. Again with a piece of scrap, I dial in the height of the blade. I made the fence with a beefy bit of plywood, jointed square and flat. Angles range from 7° to 14°. With the case assembled I can now get an accurate measure of how long the shelf needs to be. Before I make the cut I slide my stop-block in place and lock it. On the tail board I also mark on the edges. I almost did…. The angle for the tails is achieved by tilting the blade and the angle for the pins by adjusting the miter gauge. I had to set up again for the cross cut and making sure of solid downward pressure was able to fix the depth of the groove in that one board. The stop needs to be square to the base of the jig. You can give your consent to whole categories or display further information and select certain cookies. New posts will not be retrieved. Brendan Bernhardt Gaffney is the former managing editor of Popular Woodworking. I ofte, Here it is in all its beauty My router table hangs off my table saw. Here you can see the back of the shelf as it enters the front of the case and the slight gap created by tapering the tail. Let’s talk about the process and then I can explain where I was having problems. After I have repeated the process for all the cuts on the tail boards, I chop out the remaining waste between tails with a chisel and a mallet. Provided the router base is wide enough, this is pretty straightforward. Marketing cookies are used by third-party advertisers or publishers to display personalized ads. My first thought was that the router table wasn’t flat and maybe the top had sagged. I knew I had not touched the bit setting so something else must be wrong. The large fence ensures the top is truly flat – not cupped – when I rout the joinery, so the battens, when installed, will preserve this flatness. I used the table saw to cut the dovetail profile on the batten. How really depends on your particular miter gauge. Do not flip the pin board face-to-face like the tail board. Saves the visitors preferences selected in the Cookie Box of Borlabs Cookie. Using a straight edge and feeler gauges I determined that the top is flat to within .002 so that is not the problem. This could be done with a handplane, as Chris does in his book, but again, I wanted to show how to do it with power tools.
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